China Travel blog > The Mongols: The ebb and flow of the pendulum of power

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Southern China's Miao ethnic minority

The Great Khan

With a population of 1.3 billion and counting, China constitutes just under 20% of the world's inhabitants. Making up the vast majority of residents (91.59%) are the ubiquitous Han, leaving just a little over 8% to the 56 ethnic minorities officially recognized by the People's Republic. In Minority Report, we explore the colorful characters, customs and cultures of these fascinating peripheral groups. >>>

Every nation on Earth, at some point or another, considers itself to be the baddest tribe out there. Maybe it's a new sword technology or a particularly fantastic military victory. A scientific breakthrough might do it. Religious fervor. The emergence of a Great Leader...

All you have to do to topple these pretenders from the throne is whisper this name:

Genghis

It's all over. Gold is taken, you'll have to make do with silver because no tribe can touch the Mongols in terms of pure baddass-izm, breadth of influence, or sudden, brutal impact on world society. The Vikings come close. Alexander had a great run. The US shock and awe campaign, although explosive, lacks true warrior ethos IMHO. And the newest pretender, the PRC, knows better than anyone what the deal is.

It wasn't just the piles of skulls left in the dust of thousands of horses. Or the vision of Mongol riders leaning down to suck blood from their steeds necks at full gallop. Or the ruthless bloody sieges and catastrophic defeats of the world's greatest armies.

It was what came afterward. Europe can thank Genghis and his horsemen for the Renaissance that pulled the superstitious and oppressed out of the Middle Ages. Religions from Zoroastrianism to Taoism revived themselves through court debates presided over by tolerant Khans. Silk Road caravans rolled from Chang'An to Venice unmolested, transferring fresh blood, ideas and goods across Asia facilitating a rolling golden age that brought China, India, Persia, the Muslim Caliphate and eventually Europe into a new era.

China, a realm constantly shifting between chaos and central control in an unbreakable cycle, was shocked by absolute defeat into unity and went on to build a cohesive nation that has (geographically) changed little since the Ming Dynasty overthrew the last of the Yuan Emperors.

The Mongols came like the furious Hand of God and dispatched the tired husks left over from the Tang, Roman and Persian high points, but not a man, woman or child standing in their way during their initial breakout spoke of anything but demons and death. If they spoke at all.

A Confederation of Tribes

Mongol Children

Imagine this one, angry and armed, coming for ya... (they still got that look don't they?)

Like most modern terms, "Mongol" fails to adequately describe the nomadic peoples of northeast Asia's steppes. The Mongols were and continue to be divided into at least six different tribes, split more or less regionally into western, eastern, southern and northern Mongols. The tribes to the west have a closer relationship with the Turkic peoples (such as the Tartar, Uigher and Tangut), whereas the eastern Mongols dealt more with Jurchens and Manchurians. These relationships have led to lighter-skinned, light-eyed "Yellow Mongols" in the west and darker "Brown Mongols" in the east. The southern Mongols are based around the Ordos Loop of the Yellow River, and have drifted from horses to plows throughout their centuries-long relationship with the Chinese.

The true origin of the Mongol people is lost to history and to Imperial Chinese oversimplification of the "barbarian horsemen" from the west and the north. The Mongols as we envision them were labeled as Xiongnu (匈奴, Xiōngnú), Donghu (东胡, Dōnghú) or Xianbei (鲜卑, Xiānbēi) and most likely stemmed from the Khitan. But history is fluid and it is the Now that counts.

Today the tribes of the steppes are known as Mongols, refer to themselves primarily as Mongols and share an identity based on the legendary horsemen of the past. Time honored traditions like good yurt living, wrestling your neighbor, clear brain-freezing liquor, a spirituality that retains both Tibetan Buddhist qualities as well as the ancient Tengris traditions and a reputation for being tough that persists to this day.

The Mongol nation is divided now both regionally, as above, but also politically. The independent nation of Mongolia is the heart of Mongol culture with the Chinese province of Inner Mongolia to the south and the Russian state of Kalmyka as foreign centers of the Mongol peoples. The tribes are scattered across a horizontal band that runs from Korea to the Caspian Sea, but the highest concentration of Mongols anywhere is in China, with roughly 6 million people. In contrast, the nation of Mongolia has a population of just over 2.6 million.

A buffer

Inner Mongolia, when seen on a satellite map, is the clear geographical boundary between the Mongolian nomads and Han settlers. The Yin, Hulang and Luliang mountains form a wall of stone and steppe that descends south into the Yinchuan Plain, the Yellow River and eventually the ancient Chinese heartland of Shanxi, Henan and Hebei provinces.

The settled, walled, farming towns of the south encroached ever north, trading cash, women and land in vain attempts to keep peace at the border. The nomads spent half the time fighting amongst themselves and other half raiding into the south for fat city booty.The relationship ebbed and flowed with the balance of power: when China was unified and rich, the land south of the mountains and the Gobi desert was usually occupied by settlers and soldiers. When China fractured and the tribes united, then settlers were driven off and border towns were put to the sword.

Ruins of the Great Wall drift across the 1.2 million km2 territory of Inner Mongolia, crumbling signs of the pendulum that swung here for centuries.

The situation changed most recently in 1947, when Communist forces in the Soviet Union and China cooperated to split and occupy Mongolia, ridding themselves of an independent-minded nation straddling the border and creating a buffer to help stave off possible conflict. Inner Mongolia today is more than 80% Han Chinese, which may include a large number of sinicized Mongols.

Modern Mongols

Modern and beautiful

Inner Mongolia is now one of China's fastest developing regions and a popular tourist destination for bikers, hikers and campers. The capital, Hohhot, is the primary initial destination for first-timers to the province, but from there trips to the Inner Mongolian Grasslands or Baotou for a look at the Great Khan's Mausoleum are common ways to get a taste of life in Inner Mongolia.

Life is strange out there, in a land of massive, empty cities in the middle of dusty plains and crumbling ruins that see the occasional bike race and herding family. The buffer between the nomads and the cities is still in many ways a no-man's land where two distinctly different cultures meet, fight, trade and intermarry.

Modern Mongols have moved to Beijing en masse as migrant workers—similar to Anhui farmers to Shanghai and everyone else to the Pearl River Delta—and those that stay in the border lands alternate between the nomadic traditions of their forefathers and the alluring lifestyle depicted on the television set.

For a more in depth look into the complex relationship between the settlers and the nomads, check out Jiang Rong's novel Wolf Totem.

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  1. Someone thinks this story is fantastic...

    This story was submitted to Hao Hao Report - a collection of China's best stories and blog posts. If you like this story, be sure to go vote for it....

    By Hao Hao Report September 14,2011 09:40 AM

  2. Wished the article was longer. But nonetheless it was Brilliant.

    By Varun September 15,2011 10:15 AM

  3. Good stuff. There's also a great description of the historic and cultural differences between Mongolia (country) and Inner Mongolia (Chinese Province) from Mongolia Briefing here: http://mongolia-briefing.com/news/2011/05/a-tale-of-two-mongolias.html

    By Gan Byandek September 16,2011 05:38 PM

  4. sure Europe has the Mongols to thank for the Enlightenment. They also have them to thank for the bubonic plague... #JUST SAYIN

    By Super Muscles September 16,2011 10:08 PM

  5. "It wasn't just the piles of skulls left in the dust of thousands of horses. Or the vision of Mongol riders leaning down to suck blood from their steeds necks at full gallop." - Best line. EVER.

    By spoofer September 19,2011 05:44 PM

  6. @Varun, Spoofer and Gan thanks for the info and kind words
    @ Super Muscle LMAO that's truth my man thanks for the reminder

    By Sascha Matuszak September 20,2011 11:25 AM

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